Remove the door and all of the hardware. Wedge a chisel or flathead screwdriver in the joints between the hinges and the top of the hinge pins, then lightly tap the screwdriver handle with a hammer until the hinge pins come loose. Pull out all the pins, and then have someone help you carry the door outside to a pair of sawhorses. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the rest of the hardware, being careful not to strip the screw holes. Door paint can take some time to dry, so make sure that you have a temporary replacement to protect your house. You can use an existing storm door or even a large piece of plywood, which will help keep out insects. Old wooden doors need sanding and priming. If you brush a new coat over an old paint job, it will result in a sloppy-looking finish. To get a smooth working surface, scrape off any peeling pieces and sand down the old paint until the surface of the door feels even all over. Start with a medium 120-grit piece of sandpaper, and then work your way up to 220 grit.

If the door still feels rough to the touch, finish with a fine-grade 320-grit paper. Always wear a dust mask and safety goggles when sanding. If the door has cracks, repair them by dabbing small amounts of caulk onto the cracks and working the caulk in with a putty knife. Let the caulk dry, then sand the repaired spots until they're smooth. Get rid of any dust from sanding before priming. Vacuum away extra dust, and wipe the door with a tack cloth. Dampen the cloth with mineral spirits to remove stubborn dust. Apply paint and primer in a dust-free area so that no particles ruin the door surface. Brush on a single coat of primer with a wide paintbrush, covering the front and all side edges of the door. Primer prevents the door from absorbing moisture and helps smooth out its texture. Once the primer has dried on the front of the door, flip the door over to prime the back. If the primer drips or goes on chunky, lightly sand the surface to smooth it out. Once the primer has dried completely, stir your paint.

Paint the door from the top down, using a wide brush for corners or crevices and a small roller for flat panels. Make long strokes with the brush, and clean any visible lines on the front door with a dry cloth. Just as with the primer, let each side of the door dry before turning it over to work on the other side. home decoration stores in bostonAdd at least two coats of paint to the door, using three or more if you want to increase color saturation.home decor themes 2012 Paint the door sections in this order:victoria home decor stores Let your front door dry before reinstallation. cute house decor diy

Once the paint no longer feels tacky to the touch, replace all hardware and have someone help you reattach the door to its frame with the hinge pins. Align the hinges together while replacing the pins. Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a questionchristmas decorations tree theme The best answers are voted up and rise to the topbest paint to use on exterior I recently purchased a new pre-hung exterior door for my house. We opted for a solid-core Douglas Fir instead of the fiberglass models as the wooden door was substantially cheaper. We want to paint it and I'm not sure what kind of primer and paint to use. What would you recommend? If it helps, the weather in my area is relatively mild -- temperatures average around the 70's with winter lows reaching the mid 40's and summer highs reaching the 90's.

We get rain and fog during the winter months. Here's a picture if it helps. doors wood paint primer front-door My favorite primer for wood doors is Bins Bullseye, pigmented shellac. This primer bonds well, hides wood grain well and gives a very smooth surface for top coats. If you prefer to stay with a latex product, then Kilz premium is good too. Remember prep is of the utmost importance for a good finish. Sand everything and clean it well before applying primer. On a new piece, I like to lightly sand the first coat of primer. You will feel the difference, trust me. I like to use two coats of primer, then sand it again very lightly to make it super smooth: 220 grit used lightly is fine. Clean it well with a tact cloth or very slightly water dampened rag. Now for the top coat. Use a premium quality 100% acrylic exterior trim paint. Usually a gloss or semi gloss looks great, but that's a personal preference. Don't skimp on the brush: get a good Purdy Glide, poly/nylon 2½" angled, soft chisel tip.

Apply nice smooth, thin coats, and expect to do three coats for a good solid fill. Start in the panels and work your way out to the rails and stiles. If you can take the time to remove the door after it is installed, (never remove door from frame before installation!!!!) lay it flat to paint. Laying it flat will really help avoid drips and runs. Pay special attention to the panel corners and details for drips and puddles a few minutes after you apply the paint. Use long smooth strokes to finish each panel, rail and stile. BTW, a really good latex 100% acrylic is every bit as durable as an oil based product. Oil based paints are going away and have been compromised greatly in recent years due to VOC laws. I stopped using oil paint several years ago. The only oil based product I use now is urethane. I'd usually go for oil based paints. One coat of primer, one or two of undercoat and then probably two gloss. You don't want to apply the paint too thickly as that can led to runs and rippling if it dries unevenly.

By going with thinner coats of paint you often have to apply more coats than the tin suggests will do the job. More, thinner coats of paint are also less likely to chip when knocked which is a real consideration for doors that get a lot of traffic. Having said that the last lot of gloss paint we used on our windows didn't last as long as we would have liked so we're now using, what in the UK is called "Trade paint". We'll have to wait and see if it's more durable, but you can get this in gloss or satin finishes and either oil based or water based if you need the quick drying. I say oil based primer & paint. And the reason is, most of the manufactured doors these days are veneered & not solid. Water based Acrylic primer & paint are okay on a solid wood door , but is is bad for veneered doors. I sell both types of doors. And my customers are all told to use oil based products when finishing their doors. If they don't the water based products make the veneers delaminate & they have to glue them back on & clamp them.