A gloss paint finish on interior and exterior woodwork is durable and looks great. It doesn’t have to be brilliant white, either. You can get pre-mixed gloss in dozens of shades, or mixed to order. Gloss paint comes in three forms: liquid, non-drip and one coat. For this job we’re painting over a darkstained window frame to lighten up a gloomy room. We’re going to use the undercoat and liquid gloss method, but many of the steps below can be used to help you get a great finish with any gloss system you choose. Preparation is key to a good finish with any paint product, but with gloss you’ll get noticeably better results if you spend a little extra time preparing the surface. The simple step of rubbing down the undercoat with wet and dry paper, for example, helps the gloss to flow on better, giving a shiner finish to the job.Specks of dust, pet hair and flying insects can all conspire to ruin the best-applied paint. A vacuum cleaner and a tack cloth will be your best defence against them.

Arm yourself before you start. After all that, the actual gloss painting is straightforward. Follow the tips in step 10 and you’ll get a great finish. Looking for more DIY advice? Find expert information and step-by-steps here 1. Lay new plastic disposable dust sheets in the area you plan to work in. If you use material dust sheets make sure they are completely dust free. 2. Its much easier to paint a surface thats clear of any interruptions, so remove any latches and handles. 3. Use 240-grade sandpaper (wrapped around a sanding block, where possible) to put a key onto the surface so the undercoat will adhere to it. Always sand in the direction of the grain. This surface had a couple of coats of wood stain on it and it was straightforward to key up. If the surface you plan to paint has several layers of old paint on it, you may have to start with a coarser grade of paper to get rid of any imperfections. Always finish off with a finer grade paper like 240 or you’ll end up with scratches that will show through the undercoat and top coat.

Wear a dust mask for this part of the job. 4. Once you’ve finished rubbing down, use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the rubbing-down dust. 5. If you’re painting a window, or a door with glass panels, mask up the edges of the glass with 25mm masking tape. best way to decorate a small master bedroomUse a sharp Stanley-type knife to cut the tape neatly into the corners. ideas for room decoration tumblrThis will stop any paint getting on the glass and allows you to flow the paint on, rather than the tentative daubing thats associated with cutting in.christmas tree ornament ideas homemade 6. Use a tack cloth to remove any dust before you begin painting. recycled home decor store

This window frame looked clean; the tack cloth proved otherwise. 7. Brush sizes 12mm, 25mm and 50mm will cover most undercoating and glossing jobs. The better the brush the better the finish, so buy the best you can afford.wall art decor at target 8. Open and stir the undercoat. wall art decor targetWe find its better to start painting in the middle and work outwards to avoid putting brush marks in paint that is starting to dry. On a window frame, that means starting on the wood thats closest to the glass. Once the undercoat is dry (normally two to three hours, but check on the tin), apply another coat on top. Two layers of undercoat should cover any darker paint finishes underneath and also helps to build a better base for the gloss coat. 9. Leave the second undercoat to dry for 24 hours and then rub it down all over with 400-grade wet and dry paper (used dry) wrapped around a sanding block.

This process gets rid of any surface imperfections ready for the gloss coat. Use a tack cloth to get rid of the rubbing-down dust. 10. Stir the gloss paint. Load the brush with gloss as shown in the picture and start painting in the middle and work outwards (as in step 8). Allow the gloss to flow out over the surface as you paint – don’t be tempted to over brush the paint or you’ll leave marks. Keep an eye out for runs in the paint (corners are particularly prone to them) and brush them out immediately. 11. Let the gloss harden for at least 24 hours. Avoid closing painted windows and doors completely for this time if possible, otherwise the paint may stick. If you’ve put masking tape on any glass, run a Stanley-type blade along the join between the tape and the wood. This prevents the tape from pulling up the paint as you peel it off. Replace the latches and handles and the job is finished. I am looking for suggestions on the ideal wood species for a paint grade entry way (exterior) door.

I have made many interior doors out of everything from 2'' MDF to quartersawn bubinga, but thought you might have suggestions for material for the door I am proposing: 2" thick (maybe 21/4), 36" wide x 84" high, 3 rail with inset panel in bottom half and glass in top. Like a lot of people, I often use poplar for paint grade cabinet doors, but maybe there is something more stable for this situation? I also need to construct the accompanying jamb/stop/transom. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Douglas fir is a very stable wood for exterior door use and paints well. Other options would be mahogany or, for lighter weight, redwood. Remember that when using 2-1/4" thickness, your door will need to be beveled severely on the knob side, as it will bind in the jamb, or bevel your jamb to the inside as well as beveling your door. Also check the hardware you want to use, as normal locksets are made for 1-3/4" max doors. I hung a set of 2-1/4" French doors a couple years ago.

The customer wanted brass rim locks, so they were not as much of a hardware issue. But I did have to bevel the door and the astragal to accommodate the extra thickness. It sounds as if you are already onto it, but poplar would be the absolute last species to use for either the door or the frame. In the Midwest, I have seen poplar sprout mushrooms after just two years on well painted exterior finish work. We refuse any exterior work that is spec'd in Poplar. I guess I won't be using poplar! Mahogany was considered and probably will be my choice for this project. I am using a Baldwin mortise lock that is spec'd for a 2" door - that should be thick enough. One more question: should I consider the use of ball bearing hinges (5x5), and if so, any recommended brands readily available in the NYC area? I'd highly recommend stave core rails and stiles, veneered in your choice of wood. I'm building two exterior doors 4x8 and to tame temperature difference between exterior and interior, stave core is the only way to go.

You can either make them or buy them from Foremost Wood Products, 1-718-447-5836. Stave core is the way to go. Last time I did a door I used stave core, then I used marine epoxy to apply the 1/4" wormy chestnut. Should you decide not to go with stave core construction, I recommend Spanish cedar, as it costs less than mahogany, is just as durable and is available in a variety of thicknesses. Poplar is not nearly as "exterior proof" as it used to be. In old (100yrs+) structures around here, it is not uncommon to see poplar siding and all sorts of poplar exterior work. It is all of the old - first growth - timber, dark green or purple, dense and seemingly very weather and rot resistant. It was also the dominant species in the forest at the time and "in the way" and available. New poplar seems to be high in sapwood, with very wide spacing of the rings, and quite the opposite of weather-resistant. I worked in a small shop at the time western pines broke the $1.00 a foot barrier and as a result, the shop switched to poplar to save money, since it seemed a good substitute considering all the historic houses we saw that had poplar.

Within a year or two, problems started showing up. New poplar has a lot of movement in service (less stable) and doors and sash stopped fitting, and had to be fiddled with quite a bit. Then, shutters started twisting and joints opening. Then mushrooms and other things started sprouting, even though everything was properly painted and fit. One customer threw a panel on the counter, with a nice fresh bloom of pretty pink mushrooms coming out of the lower rail/panel plow. We went back to pine soon after. A few years later, I worked for a greedy owner that wanted us to make poplar doors to sell for builder grade (only a one year warranty in this state). When I advised him of the problems, he said the sales staff would handle complaints. It was still a nightmare, since the builders and/or their customers would find me and want replacements, and demand to know why we would make an inferior product. I was powerless except to walk out the door, which I did. Haven't made an exterior poplar door in 13 years, and haven't ever had a serious problem with any of our doors.

First choice for PG exterior: vertical grain Douglas fir, old growth. You might want to consider finding some recycled fir lumber or beams from a demolished house built before the forties. Look for the old lumber that was not planed smooth on the sides. 2" lumber will measure 1 7/8" to 2 1/4" thick. This stuff has been well seasoned and it stays straight forever. Just remember to use a chip-breaker when using your shaper for Douglas fir. Otherwise it can splinter badly. Also, I'd stay away from redwood - way too soft for a front door. What ever happened to using good old C select pine? We use it all the time on paint grade exterior doors and have never had a problem. Use a good marine glue and you're all set. Would you like to add information to this article?Interested in writing or submitting an article?Have a question about this article?Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Doors and Windows Would you like to add information to this article?

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