Sometimes a piece of wood siding or trim peels while neighboring boards don’t, even though they all get the same sun and moisture exposure (Photo 1). In a case like this, the board itself is usually the problem. Some boards won’t hold paint because of “mill glaze,” a glossy or waxy surface left when the board was planed at the mill. Cure this problem by sanding glazed areas. Grain pattern can cause a more common and difficult problem. Dark bands of grain (called “latewood”) are less porous and stable than the lighter bands of wood, so paint doesn’t stick to them very well. This isn’t a problem when those dark bands are narrow and uniform. But when they’re wide, paint soon loses its grip. In fact, you can sometimes see a board’s grain pattern right through the paint as cracks and peeling develop along the latewood grain lines (Photo 1). If you have a few bad boards on your house, you can delay peeling by sanding thoroughly with 60-grit paper before priming.

That roughens the dark bands so they hold paint better. But the only long-term cure for a bad board is replacement.cheap country western home decor Before you get started, measure the width and thickness of your siding. beach house decor bathroomKeep in mind that about an inch of the board’s face is covered by the board above. color combinations for home exteriorsBuy matching siding at a lumberyard; most home centers don’t carry it. To remove a bad piece of siding, you have to pull out two rows of nails: the ones in the bad board itself, and those in the board directly above. Siding is thin and splits easily, so the tricky part of this job is pulling nails without damaging surrounding boards.

A cat’s paw is the best tool for digging out nails if damage to the surrounding wood doesn’t matter (Photo 1). To get at the nails in the board above, shove a flat pry bar up under it and gently pry the board outward. In most cases, this will pop up the nailhead, so you can pull it with your hammer claw. If you run into a stubborn nail that won’t move easily, don’t use brute force and risk splitting the good board. Instead, slip a hacksaw blade behind the siding and cut the nail (Photo 2).You can’t get the new board in unless you pull the remaining shank of the cut nail (Photo 3). Before you install the new board, lightly sand it with 80-grit paper. If you come across shiny, glazed areas, sand them thoroughly. Then prime the backside and the ends (Photo 4). Also prime the ends of adjoining boards. This step pays off by slowing the moisture penetration that can lead to peeling at the joints. If the new siding is redwood or cedar, buy a special “stainblocking” primer.

Both of these woods contain natural chemicals (tannins) that can bleed through paint, causing brownish stains. A stain-blocking primer will seal in the tannins. Nail the new board into place with 8d galvanized nails. Use a nail set to countersink the nailheads slightly below the wood’s surface. Countersinking nails helps to keep the heads from protruding as the wood shrinks and swells. After you prime the sunken nailheads (Photo 5), keep an eye on them for a few minutes; primer may drip out of the craters and leave runs on your siding. When the primer is dry, fill the craters with caulk. Also caulk the ends of the board, where it meets trim or the next piece of siding. Finish the job with two coats of acrylic paint.How to Prep for Exterior Painting This Old House host Kevin O'Connor and painting contractor Rich O'Neil show how to properly prepare a house for paint In this video This Old House host Kevin O'Connor and painting contractor Rich O'Neil show how to properly prepare a house for paint.

1. Set up scaffolding for easy access to the house wall. 2. Staple a plastic tarp to the lowest course of siding to catch paint chips. 3. Don dust mask and safety glasses, then use a pull-style paint scraper to scrape loose paint from the siding. Tungsten-carbide-blade scrapers stay sharper longer, but steel-blade scrapers are cheaper and can easily be re-sharpened with a file. 4. Always scrape in the direction of the wood grain to prevent damaging the siding. 5. Remember to scrape paint from the lower lip (butt edge) of the siding, too. 6. Remove any remaining paint with an electric random-orbit sander fitted with 24-grit disk. Connect the sander to a vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter. 7. Keep the sander moving at all times to avoid sanding a depression into the siding. 8. Feather-sand the edges of sound, well-adhered paint down to bare wood. 9. Sand rust from nail heads, then set and caulk the nail holes. 10. Use a molding scraper to remove paint from convex shapes.

11. Chemical strippers can be used to loosen paint from intricate moldings. 12. An electric infrared paint stripper uses heat to release the paint's adhesion to the siding. 13. Hold the infrared stripper in place for one minute, then immediately scrape off the softened paint. Tools to Prep for Exterior Painting Random-orbit sander and vacuum Hammer and nail set Electric infrared paint stripper 24-grit sanding disk for use with Plastic tarpChemical paint stripper used to remove paint from intricate moldings Paintable caulk for use with caulking gun Before You BeginCautionUse eye protection when pressure washing. Choose the proper paint applicators and exercise caution when using a ladder.CautionPaint on homes built before 1978 may contain lead. Check with your local health department or the Environmental Protection Agency if you have questions or concerns.Preparing an Exterior SurfaceStep 1A clean surface is essential for a good paint job.

A pressure washer with the proper detergent is the most efficient means of thoroughly cleaning exterior siding. Use caution when selecting the nozzle - a concentrated stream can damage wood, seep under lapped siding and break windows. On surfaces that aren't suffering from excessive peeling or flaking, a regular garden hose and scrub brush will work. Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is a good, safe cleaning agent. To remove and prevent mildew, use a detergent with mildewcide or a mixture of one quart household bleach in three quarts of water. Follow package instructions for any cleaning product you use. Rinse the surface when cleaning is completed.Step 2Scrape away loose paint. Using a wire brush, scrape paint that's flaking or located in areas that the washer didn't reach. Scraping to the bare wood is not necessary if the old paint is intact. It can be painted over after sanding.Watch our Video: How Do I Use Sandpaper? Step 3Repair any surface flaws with a surface repair compound rated for exterior use.