Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I recently purchased a new pre-hung exterior door for my house. We opted for a solid-core Douglas Fir instead of the fiberglass models as the wooden door was substantially cheaper. We want to paint it and I'm not sure what kind of primer and paint to use. What would you recommend? If it helps, the weather in my area is relatively mild -- temperatures average around the 70's with winter lows reaching the mid 40's and summer highs reaching the 90's. We get rain and fog during the winter months. Here's a picture if it helps. doors wood paint primer front-door My favorite primer for wood doors is Bins Bullseye, pigmented shellac. This primer bonds well, hides wood grain well and gives a very smooth surface for top coats. If you prefer to stay with a latex product, then Kilz premium is good too. Remember prep is of the utmost importance for a good finish.

Sand everything and clean it well before applying primer. On a new piece, I like to lightly sand the first coat of primer. You will feel the difference, trust me. I like to use two coats of primer, then sand it again very lightly to make it super smooth: 220 grit used lightly is fine. Clean it well with a tact cloth or very slightly water dampened rag. Now for the top coat. Use a premium quality 100% acrylic exterior trim paint. Usually a gloss or semi gloss looks great, but that's a personal preference. Don't skimp on the brush: get a good Purdy Glide, poly/nylon 2½" angled, soft chisel tip. Apply nice smooth, thin coats, and expect to do three coats for a good solid fill. Start in the panels and work your way out to the rails and stiles. If you can take the time to remove the door after it is installed, (never remove door from frame before installation!!!!) lay it flat to paint. Laying it flat will really help avoid drips and runs. Pay special attention to the panel corners and details for drips and puddles a few minutes after you apply the paint.

Use long smooth strokes to finish each panel, rail and stile.diy wall decor blog BTW, a really good latex 100% acrylic is every bit as durable as an oil based product. home decor furniture pittsburghOil based paints are going away and have been compromised greatly in recent years due to VOC laws. good paint for exterior doorI stopped using oil paint several years ago. The only oil based product I use now is urethane. I'd usually go for oil based paints. One coat of primer, one or two of undercoat and then probably two gloss. You don't want to apply the paint too thickly as that can led to runs and rippling if it dries unevenly. By going with thinner coats of paint you often have to apply more coats than the tin suggests will do the job.

More, thinner coats of paint are also less likely to chip when knocked which is a real consideration for doors that get a lot of traffic. Having said that the last lot of gloss paint we used on our windows didn't last as long as we would have liked so we're now using, what in the UK is called "Trade paint". We'll have to wait and see if it's more durable, but you can get this in gloss or satin finishes and either oil based or water based if you need the quick drying. I say oil based primer & paint. And the reason is, most of the manufactured doors these days are veneered & not solid. Water based Acrylic primer & paint are okay on a solid wood door , but is is bad for veneered doors. I sell both types of doors. And my customers are all told to use oil based products when finishing their doors. If they don't the water based products make the veneers delaminate & they have to glue them back on & clamp them. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password

Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged doors wood paint primer front-door or ask your own question.Painting Q & A When beginning your painting project, you'll want to consider the sheen of the paint — or the gloss level. The higher the gloss level, the shinier the appearance and the more scrubbable the finish. There are different types of sheens for different areas of your home. •Flat sheens are ideal for low-traffic areas such as formal dining rooms and master bedrooms. They provide a beautiful matte coating that hides minor surface imperfections. Ideal for living rooms, dining rooms and bedrooms. •Eggshell paints provide excellent coverage that is washable and scrubbable. They have a slightly lower sheen than satin but offer the same type of durability. Eggshell paints are ideal for living rooms, bedrooms and family rooms. •Satin paints go a step above flats in scrubbability, providing a nice balance between washability and subtle gloss.

They perform and look great in just about any room. •Semi-gloss paints ensure maximum durability. They are commonly used in children's rooms and high-moisture areas, such as bathrooms, as well as for trim. •High-gloss paints are highly reflective and work well for highlighting details, such as trim and decorative molding. They are also the best choice for doors and cabinets — or any area that sees a high volume of abuse. •Ceiling flats are designed specifically for ceilings. These are usually extra spatter-resistant. Paint in the following order overall: 1) gables, 2) main siding, 3) windows, 4) siding trim, 5) doors. When painting siding, always paint from the top down, and paint next to the trim first, creating a border about two to three inches from the edge of the trim. Then begin painting the rest of the siding, remembering to paint under the edge. (Hint: Paint in small sections of three to four clapboards and a few feet at a time, applying a fresh brush full of paint to unpainted areas and working back into the areas you've already done.